Last visited in June 2016
Serving as home to the headquarters of the African Union, the UN Economic Commission for Africa and a host of other international organizations, Addis Ababa is sometimes called Africa’s political capital and like many other world capitals, it’s far from the most interesting place in Ethiopia. But there is no avoiding the city on any tour of the country, as it serves as the location of Ethiopia’s only international airport. And Addis is not without its charms. The city does has some interesting sights, modern tourist infrastructure and a thriving art scene. If you’re travelling from far away, it’s a good idea to stop here on the way in for a day of rest and keep in mind that many European and North American flights leave late at night, so you will likely get another day to see the city on the way home. Two days will be enough for the city’s highlights, but if you are doing a long trip to all the remote parts of the country, it’s a good idea to stop over here for a break at a modern hotel with good internet, hot water and variety of food.
There are plenty of hotel options in Addis for all tastes and budgets, and the best luxury option is probably the Sheraton, with its beautiful grounds, variety of restaurants, manicured gardens, huge pool and spa. Some of the amenities are open to non-guests for a fee, so this is a good stop to make in the middle of your Ethiopia adventure for a relaxing afternoon. Given the traffic in town, I would consider staying at one of the many hotels that are close to the airport, which will make your travel more predictable. I really liked Friendship International hotel and the Capital Hotel and Spa, although the latter is a bit further away from the airport. Both are clean, modern four star properties. If you are looking for a cheaper option, the three star Caravan Hotel is also a good bet.
A good way to start your tour of the city is to go up Mount Entoto. The trip from the downtown hotels to the top of the mountain will give you a good overview of the city. Just watch out for US Embassy signs when you get close to the mountains, and don’t try to take pictures when you pass it, or you may experience an unwelcome interruption to your tour. Ironically, the Embassy grounds can be easily seen from the mountain’s viewpoint on any clear day.
As you drive up or down the mountain, chances are you will see women carrying huge bales of eucalyptus branches and leaves down the mountain to be used for heating and cooking.
Make the former palace of Emperor Menelik II your first stop. Just don’t expect a lavish palace in the European tradition, or anything comparable to the palaces in Gondar, the former capital. Addis was founded by Menelik at the end of the 19th century and the palace is a simple mud building with a thatched roof. Apparently fit for a king back in the day. Also worth checking out, and on the same compound is St Mary’s Church (Maryam Entoto), where Menelik was crowned. Currently an active church, it still hosts many religious festivals and events.
After you come done from the mountain, be sure to check out the two museums that are definitely worth visiting in the city – the Ethnological Museum at Addis Ababa University and the National Museum. The Ethnological Museum was founded after Ethiopia’s last emperor Haile Selassie donated his palace to Addis Ababa University in 1961. In fact, you can still see the emperor’s bathroom and bedroom with their original furnishing, including bullet holes from an attempted coup. But the best part of the museum are the artifacts of Ethiopian tribal life arranged chronologically from childhood to death, offering great insight into the diverse and rich cultures of Ethiopia’s many ethnic groups. This is also one museum that you might get more out on the last day of your Ethiopian trip, as it will give you context for the things you’ve seen.
A short distance from the University is the National Museum with its collection of imperial family memorabilia, Ethiopian art and archeological finds, including a collection of early hominid fossils, including the famous Lucy. The original fossils are locked away in the museum archives, but there are two sets of replicas, including a standing model, which will give you a good appreciation of how much smaller our early ancestors were.
One museum I did not get a chance to visit, but will likely try to see on my next trip to the country is the Red Terror Martyrs’ Memorial Museum, dedicated to the crimes of the military junta, known as the Derg in 1977-78.
Like most other Ethiopian cities, Addis has some interesting religious architecture, including the Holy Trinity Cathedral, resting spot of Haille Selassie, St George Cathedral, Baheta Mariam Monastery, and the second largest church in Africa – Bole Medhane Alem Cathedral in the airport district.
If you’re interested in Addis Ababa’s modern art scene, a great overview of the venues can be found here. But even if you don’t have a big interest in art, at the very least check out Makush Art Gallery. Set inside a nice Italian bistro, it makes for great lunch stop and a chance to shop for a nice souvenir. You can read an interesting article on Makush here.
Another “must-do” is Tomoca, a famous local coffee-house. This place has great coffee and what it lacks in Starbucks-style comfort and flash, it makes up for in atmosphere. They roast their own coffee here and sell beans by the half-kilo, just be sure you know what you’re doing, as it’s hard to get Ethiopian coffee right at home.
Tour companies usually also include the Addis Mercato in their tour itineraries, reputedly the largest open air market in Africa, but after travelling all over the country and seeing markets in everywhere from Axum in the North, to Jinka in the South, a bigger market held no fascination for me. If you want to do some souvenir shopping, this might be the place. But don’t despair if you run out of time – there are plenty of souvenirs for sale at Bole airport.