Visited in August 2013
The Noravank (New Monastery in Armenian) complex is just over 120 km from Yerevan, but we came here from Khor Virap, which is a bit closer at 83 km or about an hour and half by car. If you are not pressed for time, it’s best to time your visit for either early morning or late afternoon, when there will likely be fewer tourists and the light is sure to better. We did not have that luxury, but the site was great even in the mid-afternoon heat. Do not miss.
The drive from Khor Virap is beautiful as you go from the Ararat plains towards the town of Yeghenadzor. We went in August and there were fruit stands along the road selling delicious local produce. On the way to Noravank or back make sure you stop at the wineries of Areni and try the local wines, as well as some of the more exotic offerings, like pomegranate and apricot wine. Armenia is more known for its brandy, but it is actually home to the oldest known winery in the world.
Of course, the “new” in Noravank’s name is very relative. It was founded in 1205, fairly late, considering that Armenia adopted Christianity in the early 300s. Set in a canyon of red stone, the site is dominated by Surb Astvatsatsin (Church of the Holy Mother of God) also known as Burtelashen (built by Burtel), in honor of Armenian Prince Burtel Orbelian, who paid for its construction. This spectacular three story church was built in 1339 by the architect Momik, who died the same year, as evidenced by his tomb khachkar near the church.
Burtelashen is a memorial church and the first floor houses the tombs of the Obrelian family, including Burtel himself. The first floor portal is decorated with a relief depicting the Virgin Mary with the Archangels Gabriel and Michael at her sides and a similar one on tthe second floor entrance with St Peter and Paul flanking Christ. There is a narrow cantilevered staircase leading to the second floor, which is easier to go up, then down. This follows the wisdom that it should be easier to come to the House of God, than to leave it. These stairs are very scenic and when the site is busy it may take a few minutes for them to clear from the tourists having their picture taken on them. We certainly couldn’t resist!
The second and older of Noravank’s two churches is Surb Karapet (Church of St. John the Baptist). The church has been rebuilt several times after being destroyed by earthquakes. Its entrances are also decorated with reliefs – Virgin Mary at the first floor entrance and God the Father over the second floor windows. There is also a very interesting carving of an Orbelian Prince fighting a lion in one of the corners. The building also has a side chapel, Surb Grigor, which was added to the building in 1275. A simple structure by comparison, it contains more Orbelian tombs with some spectacular carvings.
As with other Armenian religious sites, there are many khachkars both inside the churches and on the monastery grounds. One of the most elaborate ones was crafted by Momik himself.
We probably spent a couple of hours or so at Noravank before heading back to Yerevan and then out to Geghard. If there was more time on the trip, one great idea would be to climb one of the surrounding hills and take in the view of the monastery complex from above. There is also a nice restaurant near Noravank, which makes a convenient lunch stop.